The Real Laos Experience?

Shannon felt good enough this morning to attempt the river cruise up to Nong Khiaw.

The boat was smaller than we expected for a seven hour trip. Another passenger told us the capacity was a 10 people, but there were about 14. We were told there was a bathroom, but clearly not.

Low on the water we went up the Mekong and turned up on to Ou Nan where it became much more scenic. Picturesque mountains lined the shallow (dry season) river. Our boat was quite the vehicle as well. Long and narrow, we cruised close to the water. At one point it got too shallow and we had to take a truck up several kilometers. At another point, a new bridge was being built and the diverted river had a current that was too strong for the boat, so we had to do a hike through a construction yard.

Even up further north development can be seen in the form of cell phone towers, even power lines along paved highways, and poor looking villages with brand new trucks parked under thatched wooden carparks. Still, young boys and girls are beaming happy just to have us wave to them on shore, some running down the bank to make sure to catch us.

How different life would be if you were born here, you know? This river scenery would be the norm fishing and farming for subsistence, seeing us strangely dressed light skinned people going about looking at you. The kids here muck around in the dirt for fun, playing with broken cassette tape or old tree logs, swimming naked.

The eight (not seven) hour boat ride went by quickly actually with pleasant conversation and a game of hearts with a recently retired American from Miami looking for an expat home in Asia, and a young couple from Spain. Eight hours on the boat, as cramped as it was was definitely better than eight on a bus. The water, air blowing on your face, towering cliffs and people going about village life was nice.

It doesn't mean we'll take the boat back however, Shannon already planning the minicab back. And this shorter trip made us glad we reconsidered cruising to Huay Xai.

We arrived just as the sun was setting behind mountains. It was also bath time apparently as people were out all along the river bathing, covered up of course, and also waving to us tourists as we cruised by.

Nong Khiaw is definitely more like the Laos we envisioned. While Vientiane and LP could have been just any other Asian city really, Nong Khiaw is where it just starts to get rural. Guesthouses lined the river and accommodations with hot water and wifi were easy to find, but the streets were red dirt and dusty, comforts a little more basic, and when darkness rolls around, it seems like bed time.

Shannon's first impressions: small, very rural and underdeveloped. Locals still try to charge 10,000 ($1.30) for a bag if chips even though the real price, available down the road is 8,000.

We quickly found a guesthouse for $20, a little pressed as it was getting dark already and rumors circulated that this little town booked up quickly. We had  dinner at the restaurant overlooking the river as the sky's final orange faded into night. We had a quick walk around before getting back to our room... only to find that it was only 7pm.

Oh well. Early start too the day tomorrow!